Day 6: Planes, trains & automobiles (longboat, ferry, taxi, and tuk-tuk).
We said good-bye to Phi Phi Island in the morning. We walked 1/2 mile from our bungalow to the longboats which took us to catch the morning ferry to Phuket town. It was a beautiful day, so we sat on the sundeck soaking in our last views of this tropical paradise. As the ferry moved through the water it disturbed the native flying fish. About the size of sparrows, these fish would skim across the water like a skipped rock. At times the ferry would disturb a school of them and it was like an explosion out of the water. After an entire roll of film, Nathan finally gave up getting a picture of their erratic acrobatics.
After negotiating hard for a taxi at the ferry terminal, we hired a cab to take us to the Big Buddha on our way to the Phuket airport. the Big Buddha is exactly what it sounds like:45 m high and 25 m across the base, covered alabaster. Its funded by govt, entry fees, and other 'cause related marketing"--such as you can buy a bell to hang at the buddha's feet, or write your name on a piece of alabaster that will be cemented into the buddha. The project has been going on for 20 years, and this December will be a landmark. The eyes of the buddha will be placed on the statue. Then they will cover the base with alabaster and statues of famous buddhist monks.
From the Big Buddha,we arrived at the airport to catch a plane to Bangkok. Our travel agent had recommended that the night train from Bangkok to Chang Mai is a good use of time and money. For the same rate as your hotel room, you can get a comfortable night's sleep and see some of the country side.
Exhausted people were sleeping on the floor in the Bangkok station...I should have taken that as a hint. But I was too tired, after 4 days of sleeping on our resort extra-firm mattress. When we got on the train, our sleeping compartment was actually 2 bench seats facing each other, with a padded shelf above it. After dinner (which we passed on), the table was stowed beneath the seat. The seat folded down and our steward put on sheets, pillow and a blanket, before doing the same for the padded shelf. Curtains offered privacy for changes into your pajamas. The train was FAR more comfortable than the resort bed....ah,, [squeal of the brakes] adjust the pillow, I can't quite seem to block out the light....twitch the curtain, someone walking to toilet compartment. [repeat every 6 min]. Sigh, might as well start reading.
Day 7: Arrive in Chang Mai, Wat, Wat, Wat?
We arrived in Chang Mai on the morning train...searching the guide book for a place to stay. Lonely Planet thinks that we are "flash packers"--too mature to want to stay in a dorm room style backpackers joint with thumping music but too cheap to pay for concerige service, bellhops, and a private bathroom. We stepped off the train with a short-list of cheap hotels and were quickly targetted by "spruikers" for a hotel. The rate was right and we didn't have to share a bathroom. "SOLD!"
After a quick shower, we headed out into the Old town to eat some food from street vendors and check out the temples that are part of Chang Mai's fame. Our lunch was multiple, mystery, deep fried items (fish balls, chicken, wontons) provided enough energy to walk the Temple Trail. After seeing several Wats, we ended with a visit to Wat Chedi Luang, a crumbling ancient temple in the centre with a newer ornate temple nearby.
We caught a Tuk-tuk (a covered taxi/minibus that picks up multiple fares at a time) to the hotel. After another shower, we headed to the Chang Mai night markets for dinner and deals. As we approach the market, stall after stall of watches, DVDs, thai silk bedspreads, scarves, fisherman pants, t-shirts line street after street. We found the seafood market and caught a table for dinner of local fish curries.
